A visit with the Japanese Snow Monkeys

On December 26th, we packed up the car and headed North to Nagano. One of the benefits of taking certain toll roads in Japan is the luxury of the bathrooms. The first stop we made was a tiny little convenience store and the bathrooms were around on the outside. I was a little worried because it didn't look like the nicest of places, but once I got in, I realized all of the seats were western style, and all of the seats were heated. Of course, the bathrooms aren't heated, but that's okay as long as the seats are. Honestly, there are some things I really will miss about this country.

It took us about 5 hours due to heavy traffic getting out of the Tokyo area. Once we made it to the town where we would be staying, we almost slid right into a car coming directly towards us. It was time to pull over and put on the snow chains that everyone told us would be an absolute necessity. Brian luckily got the snow chains on after a couple of tries, and we were on our way up the hill to the Yudanaka View Hotel, a beautiful Japanese ryokan (typical Japanese style hotel). We were greeted with big waves and hugs from Yuki (the woman with whom I booked our night stay over the phone). She was so excited that we were there. We had some friends stay at the same place last year, and it came very highly recommended. They welcomed us inside, and while some hotel staff parked the car and gathered our belongings, Yuki directed us to a great lounge area overlooking the snowy moutains, where we had coffee and juice for the boys. We then headed to our room to get on our snow gear because we were headed to see the famous Japanese Snow Monkeys.

The hotel was about a 10 minute drive from the Jigokundani Monkey park. The driver dropped us off along with another woman and her two sons (Japanese, so we couldn't talk to them very easily). The walk up to the actual park is about a half an hour, but absolutely beautiful. We had so much snow, so the trees were tipped in white. The boys loved throwing snowballs and jumping into the snow. We walked for a while, and then we came upon a Japanese onsen (hot baths with natural hot springs water). It was at this point that we ran into our first snow monkeys. At first they kind of freaked me out, but I soon realized that they weren't harmful- they are so use to people, so I guess it is no big deal to see four human beings dressed in big puffy coats, hats, and boots. We walked further and found the sign to the park. Once we got there, there were hundreds. It was unbelievable. And there they were- bathing in the onsen. I couldn't believe it- but I guess it is how they stay warm. We witnessed some fights, and some very protective mamas. The little babies were tiny and looked so cold unless they were cuddled with another monkey. I really liked that although it is a park and people visit often, it is completely open- no fences or cages. They were just there in the mountains, bathing and trying to stay warm.

It definitely ranked up there with the wild horses in Corolla, NC, and the wild Kangaroos in Sydney, Australia.

When we got back to our hotel, we rested a bit before having dinner at the traditional restaurant in the hotel. I did my best to eat when I could, but I don't do well when they bring the fish with the head and eyes staring up at me. The boys ate rice, fruit, and a little bit of beef. No one starved, but I will say that as much as I try, the food here is not something I will miss. However, I have gotten a lot better than when we first got here.

So after dinner, we headed down to the Japanese Onsen. For those of you who aren't familiar, let me just say, this is not something I would ever do in the states, nor would I do it if I knew there was a possibility that I would run into someone I knew. However, I did it, and now I can check another thing off of my list of things to do in Japan. The onsen is divided into two baths. One is the ladies side and the other is the men's side. You wear your Yukata (japanese robe) into the onsen area, and then you strip down (for all to see) and bathe with a shower faucet. You clean yourself all over with soap, shampoo, etc. before getting into the bath. It is very peaceful and relaxing- something I could totally get into with a bunch of strangers. But, throw a bunch of people from the base in the water with me, and I would not call that relaxing at all. The boys and Brian were separate from me. There is something about three skinny white boys bathing naked in a onsen with Japanese men- I just can't go any further.

Our room where we stayed was pretty traditional for Japanese rooms, except we upgraded to a suite, so Brian and I each got twin beds, while the kids had the futons which are put out on the tatami mats. While we were out at dinner, someone came in and set up the futons. When it is not use for sleeping, the tatami area has a table, four low chairs, and it is where you can sit and enjoy tea and treats.

We did the onsen one more time in the morning. It was much more packed this time. But by now, I am really feeling comfortable with getting naked. Hey, they weren't speaking English, so even if they were talking about me, I couldn't understand them. Actually my Japanese students had told me that nobody cares what anyone else looks like in there. They use the onsen for relaxation and peace of mind. I asked them if they would be bothered if some obese American woman got in, and they said it wouldn't bother them, nor would they comment. They are a very honest group, so I'm going to believe them on it.



We checked out of the hotel at about 10 am after talking with Yuki about possibly coming back to her other resort at the Shiga Kogen ski area in Nagano. She made the boys pinky swear they would be back. She sent us home with gifts (of course- it is the Japanese way) and goodies. When we were leaving, the whole hotel staff was in the parking lot waving and bowing as we drove away. We felt like celebrities or the Royal family.




The next stop was about an hour and a half closer to home in a town called Matsumoto. We stopped at the famous Matsumoto castle, which was breathtaking with the snow capped mountains in the background. At this point we were starving, and we started driving through the town to find something. Brian looked over and saw a Pepper Lunch. SCORE! This is a place we have in Yokosuka, and we all love it. There was even a nice parking lot to park. Usually parking is scarce in Japan because of all the tight spaces. As we were walking to our car after lunch, I looked across the parking lot and spotted a huge two story Starbucks! We had hit the jackpot. We grabbed our coffees and we were on our way.




Our view of Fuji on the way home

We finally arrived home by about 7 pm. It was a great trip. We were unpacking the car, and the boys had already come up to the house and I walked in and saw them playing in the living room. I must share this because it was innocent...however, I stopped them right away (after I about had a heart attack). I hear them playing, and then I hear, "Basterds!" I am not quite sure which one said it, but I gasped and yelled, "Where have you heard that word?" Well, Indiana Jones of course. They had watched an Indiana Jones movie on the car trip home, and I guess they picked it up from that. Too funny. I made sure that they knew never to say it again! And they knew by the tone of my voice that I meant it. However, Brian and I had a big chuckle later because we both knew they had no idea what it meant or that it was a bad word.